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Week in Review: Our first 7 days in Sydney

The Opera House at night

It’s been an exciting and exhausting first week in Sydney. I spent my first week in the ThoughtWorks office meeting people and getting work and personal affairs in order (IDs, bank accounts, etc). We’ve also started the search for an apartment, which we’re told will be a challenging process. In the meantime we’re mostly living out of suitcases, as we don’t want to unpack everything while we’re still in the corporate apartment. It takes a bit of time to dig around and find what we need, but we’re getting by.

Kristen spent the week in orientation, getting to know her new classmates and professors. Her class of 48 people represents 19 different countries, so she’s certainly getting the international experience she was looking for. If you want to know more about her MBA activities, you’ll have to bother her, since she’s been a bit lax about posting to the blog 🙂 I did get a chance to meet a few of her classmates at Cruise Bar though… they’re an entertaining bunch.

Classmates Jonathan and Daniel

We spent most of Saturday checking out apartments and getting to know various areas around the city. We’ve seen a few nice and not-so-nice places; the mix gives us a good lay of the land so we know what to expect from the housing market. We mostly looked at houses and apartments in the Surry Hills area, which reminds us a lot of the North Halsted neighborhood of Chicago and whose main street, Oxford Street, is like Halsted Street on steroids. Lunch was at Zambrero, which is currently in the running as an adequate Chipotle substitute (I’m already starting to go into withdrawal). I’ve heard good things about Guzman Y Gomez though…

Always listen to Larry the Lifeguard!

Since we couldn’t look at apartments on Sunday (most open inspections take place on Saturdays), we decided to check out more neighborhoods instead. First stop was Coogee Beach, another of Sydney’s eastern beaches. Unlike Bondi and Manly, there aren’t many surfers due to the calmer waters, so the swimmers don’t necessarily need to stay between the flags (the area of the beach off limits to surfers and more closely monitored by the lifeguards).

Giles Baths at Coogee Beach

Coogee also features a number of baths, which are sheltered ponds carved into the rock on either side of the beach. They are perfect for spending time in the ocean without having to fight the surf. Giles Baths, on the north side of the beach, is essentially just a big hole carved into the rock, but Wylies Baths, on the south side of the beach, has a fully enclosed pool, sun decks and restaurants.

The Coogee area is great, and though we’d considered living near the beach, the public transportation options for the eastern beaches are a bit limited, so we’re probably going to stay closer to the city.

Chinatown

We ended the day a little closer to home with a visit to Chinatown and the surrounding markets, although Paddy’s Market was closed by the time we arrived. One of the nice things about living near Chinatown is that we’ll have front row seats for the Chinese New Year celebrations on February 3rd. We’ve already seen a few dragons on the street as the area prepares to usher in the Year of the Rabbit.

Day 2 in Sydney: Bondi Beach, Sydney Harbour and Manly

Despite waking up at around 3am, Day 2 (Sunday, January 9th, for those of you keeping track) was poised to be much more productive. After a solid night’s sleep (if at odd hours), we were much better prepared to take on the day. We made plans to meet up with Darren, Amanda and their three kids for brunch, so we got moving early, if you count 9:45am as early, and drove over to Centennial Parklands Dining in Centennial Park.  Afterward, Darren and Amanda kindly gave us a tour of the eastern suburbs before dropping us off near Bondi Beach, one of Sydney’s most popular tourist destinations.

Kristen at Bondi Beach

After soaking in the sun for a bit (and finding some cheaper ice cream!), we boarded a bus back into the city. We had originally planned to just check out Sydney Harbour from Circular Quay (pronounced “Key”), but upon reviewing the ferry schedules, we found that there was a Manly ferry every 20 minutes, and if the sign says it’s famous, how could we miss it?

If the sign says so, it must be true

We picked up tickets ($13.20/person round trip) and hopped on the 2:40pm ferry for a quick 20 minute ride over to Manly. We quickly found out why the ferry is famous. Not only does it take you to a great destination (which we’ll get to in a minute), but you get some fantastic views of Sydney Harbour, the Harbour Bridge (which you can actually climb), and the Sydney Opera House. Cool!

Yep, we made it!

We arrived in Manly and, after a quick walk through The Corso, a pedestrian-only street lined with restaurants and shopping, we found ourselves at what is currently our favorite beach in Sydney. A retaining wall near the beach provides ample shade for yours truly and the sand and surf are fantastic. Should you come visit (and you should), you can bet that we’ll be sending you to Manly Beach to get you out of our hair for an entire day. You won’t regret it!

Manly Beach

We spent a couple hours at Manly, dined on some excellent fish and chips (the seafood, as you might imagine, is top notch), and then realized that we forgot the sunblock and decided to call it a day. You can bet we’ll be back though, and I’ll be sure to take some better pictures.

On the way out, I found a candy stand in the ferry terminal, which, at $3.50/100g ($16/pound) is a little steep, but great in a pinch. Expect a more thorough review of the candy stand soon 🙂

For those of you interested in all things gummy and chocolatey

Given that we were running on a full night’s sleep, today was much easier to handle, and though we still went to bed early, if we were more ambitious we could have pushed it (although I’m naturally an evening person anyway). If you’re aggressive about it, you can probably overcome the jet lag in 3 or 4 days, although it’ll still probably take close to a week before you’re feeling comfortable on the Aussie schedule.

Day 1 in Sydney: Unpacking and Darling Harbour

Picking up where we left off, we landed at around 6am and made it to the apartment by around 9ish. Sydney is on Australian Eastern Standard Time, which is GMT +10 hours during the winter and GMT +11 hours in the summer (October to April). So that means that I’m currently 17 hours ahead of Chicago, although the jet lag is only 7 hours. As a result, should you come visit us (and you should!), assume that it will take about about a week before you’re fully adjusted.

After spending a few hours orienting, organizing, calling people, etc, we were determined to get out of the apartment before we fell asleep. First stop: lunch and the grocery store. After getting a bite to eat and picking up the essentials, we decided to do a bit of exploring. Despite the strong urge to go see the Opera House, Harbour Bridge and all the iconic stuff on the first day, we weren’t really up for the walk, so we stayed a little closer to our neighborhood and walked to Darling Harbour instead.

$6 for one scoop is one thing, but $18 for a banana split?!

On the way, we started to notice one of the first things you’ll note about Australia: everything’s more expensive. This was all ok back when the Australian dollar was trading at around 70 US cents, but now that the AUD and the USD are about 1 to 1, your American dollar doesn’t quite go as far. I’m certainly looking forward to that first Australian dollar, cost-of-living-adjusted paycheck!

Darling Harbour and the Sydney Skyline

We spent the next couple hours wandering around Darling Harbour, checking out menus and watching the street performers. The harbour has a Navy Pier feel to it… lots of tourists, lots of restaurants, water, etc. We stopped by the Australian National Maritime Museum, though at this point it was nearing closing time, so we added it to our list of things to do.

After crossing the Pyrmont Bridge (which apparently swings to let ships through… totally missed that), we walked back up the other side, picked up some pamphlets at the information center, then stopped by the Chinese Garden of Friendship and adding it to the list as well.

Chinese Garden of Friendship

This was about enough for the day, so we walked back to the apartment and started debating where to find some dinner. At this point though, it was about 6pm and, running on only a few hours of airplane sleep and feeling like 2am, we opted to stay in before calling it an early night.

First impressions: Sydney is a fantastic place to live. It’s a clean and vibrant city with tons going on. Our apartment is on the edge of Chinatown, so everything is open late and people are out and about through most of the night. Sydney has a lot of things going for it: great weather, great location, tons of stores and restaurants, and, of course, there are awesome beaches. Stay tuned 🙂

Australia: We made it!

The story really starts a few months ago, when Kristen was notified of her acceptance into UNSW‘s business school. That one email set off a flurry of requests, paperwork, process and relocation that eventually led us to O’Hare International Airport to begin a two day trip to Sydney, our new home for the next 16 months.

The trip itself actually was pretty smooth, with the possible exception of the bag fees that come with checking 6 rather overweight duffels. Fortunately, Kristen still had her 1K status on United and I made it to Premier, so that covered most of the fees, with ThoughtWorks making up almost all of the balance (whew!) After ditching the bags, we made it through a flight from ORD to Denver, waited there for 3 hours, then continued on to Los Angeles to board our 14 hour flight to Sydney.

Flights from LAX to Sydney normally leave between 9pm and 11pm and land between 6am and 8am. You also lose a day, so in our case we left on the evening of the 6th and arrived the morning of the 8th (I’m assuming something interesting happened on the 7th, but we weren’t around for much of it). You gain the day back on the return trip, but it’s still a little weird to miss an entire day.

As it turns out, the trip itself wasn’t all that bad. Having done a few 10 hour red-eyes to South America this year, I didn’t find the trip to Sydney to be all that much worse. You still leave at night and land in the morning, so a couple extra hours here and there don’t really seem all that different.

We flew economy on the 747, so we unfortunately didn’t get to see the upper deck. I hear it’s nice, but it wasn’t worth the cost (something like $13k when Kristen looked). This was our first time on a 747, and while the plane itself isn’t all that remarkable (it’s mostly just bigger), the wings are longer and flex more, so even the slightest turbulence is magnified.

We finally landed in Sydney, breezed through immigration and were thrilled to see that all of the checked luggage made it! While it sucks to sit around the airport during 3 hour layovers, the extra time allows the bags to easily migrate from one plane to the next. We also had a comfortable buffer for any delays, which is helpful when flying through both Chicago and Denver in January.

After pulling together all of our belongings and stuffing our winter coats into what little space remained in the bags, we met up with our ThoughtWorks-arranged driver for a quick trip (20 minutes or so) to our temporary accommodations: a corporate apartment near Chinatown, at the corner of Sussex and Liverpool. The place isn’t bad and is in a pretty good location, but we won’t be here long, so we aren’t really moving in all that much. Besides, there’s still a lot to explore!

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